First I cut the next plank and test bent it into place to define the exact overlaps and marked that on both planks. You'll note that this went exactly over one of the previous screw holes so I took that screw out to cut the bevel and then sunk it down deeper afterwards.
Next I eyeballed how long to make the bevel and then measured that to make them all the same. To actually cut the bevel I tried a block plane but settled on my go-to 2" chisel and cut them free hand with a slicing motion. This one is getting close but you can see that decrease in thickness at the edge of the plank is not quite a fair curve so that hump needs to go.
The plank laying flat on the table is not too bad, the one already on the boat is a little more awkward when handling the chisel. I had to remove one of the screws here too while cutting the bevel to protect the edge on the chisel
Time for a test fit for how the two halves of the dory lap match with each other. At this point it's been through a few trial fit and adjustment cycles and is getting pretty close.
When it's as good as it's going to get (for something that thankfully doesn't have to be water tight) spread the wood glue and clamp it up.
The same process goes for the dory lap on the aft end of the planks by the transom too..
Because this isn't a real boat going in and out of the water I just glued the laps between planks and did not use any fasteners which I know is a no-no with solid lapstrake planks. It just seemed like it wasn't necessary and would increase the risk of splitting a plank and cluttering up the look of the interior when finished bright. We'll see if this works out long term but i think it's ok for something that is really more furniture than boat.
Now just three more planks to go...
Kevin - thanks very much for posting this series. Just bought teh plans. Not much of a woodworker and this helps tremendously! I'm also a Hingham resident. Would love to connect!
ReplyDeletePeter