Making a bronze boat hook - Part 1

This is one of those old projects that have been kicking around for a few years, waiting patiently to get back to the top of the list. I bought a bronze boat hook head and ash handle a few years back to make gift to my father in law and got extras to make one for my self as well. I made his, but never got around to making one for myself until now.

Here is the boat hook head, it comes from the WoodenBoat Magazine Store:

Here is the ash handle I bought way back when. You can see that the end that originally took the shovel head was too long and has been cut down and also is not steep enough of an angle to fit the boat hook casting.

Here I have already started to take some passes with a block plane, but it's pretty close to the original diameter. The center is marked on the end as are a couple of concentric circles to give me a gauge as I start cutting it down to keep it centered.

Down to the first circle, getting closer to the existing shoulder which is where the top of the boat hook casting will sit eventually.

Getting closer... The dark spots are from running a pencil on the inside of the casting before test fitting, gives you a sense of where it's touching. The inside of the casting isn't uniform and the closer it fits the stronger it will be.

Now we're getting pretty close. Taking down the high spots moves it up toward the shoulder about an 1/8th of an inch.

Next the holes are drilled from each side and lengths of 3/16 copper rod are cut to fit each hole so that an 1/8th of an inch or so is sticking out. The corners are beveled to make it slightly self aligning and then hammered into the holes to form the rivets. You could use screws, but rivets are stronger, look better, and are just saltier all around. Also they are really easy to do.

Here is one of the ends of the copper bar peened over. All it takes are light taps, I'm using a small blacksmithing hammer. The circle of divets around the rivet head are where the rounded head of the hammer is sliding down he side of the rivet head and hitting the boat hook. This is hammer movement is what gives it a domed shape and is the sign that it was done by hand.

And here it is  with all four rivets peened over resting on the small planishing hammer I used to form the rivets.

Now I need to shape and sand the rest of the handle, apply a few coats of varnish and put some fancy ropework on it and it will be ready for a few decades (hopefully) of service.

Adirondack chairs - Part 2

Wife: "You know the fourth of July is next Wednesday right?"

Not much time left to get these chairs done! I picked up more wood from the lumber yard and got down to business.

Each seat back is slightly different so the bottom slats are cut based on the seat back width for that chair. From now on I'll have to keep these together, but since one is 1/16" of an inch wider than the other I should be able to tell from the fit. Using the seat slat stock as a guide, I clamped the bottom of the chair together and drilled for the cross braces. The front brace calls for #14 x 3" stainless steel screws which seem awfully big even to me.

Next the back two cross pieces are clamped, glued, and screwed together. These two cross pieces do not meet at 90 degrees and so the edges of the boards need to be adjusted to fit the angle.

Sounds like a great job to break in my new low angle block plane which handled the job beautifully.

All the holes were plugged just like before and then all the assembled pieces were sanded up to 220 grit. I'm using Deks Olje for the finish. It's a Scandinavian marine oil finish that fills the pores of the wood and leaves a semi-gloss finish once the surface of the wood is saturated. Another overkill step, but I want these chairs to last a long time and if it's good enough for wooden boat hulls it should be good enough for a lawn chair!

I hung up the chair bottoms from the dog run cable and brushed on the first coat. The cedar almost changes colors as you look from different angles. All the plugs have the grain oriented perpendicular to the surrounding grain so they really stand out.

Here they are after the second coat working by shop lights. From this angle the main boards appear lighter and the plugs darker.

It will probably take 6 coats or more to fill up the grain and get a nice even finish so I better keep at it.